Pit Fruits:Guidelines

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GUIDELINES: PIT FRUIT PRODUCTION


CHERRIES AND PLUMS GUIDELINES

STATISTICS

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OUTLINE OF MANAGEMENT ACTIVITIES

Cultural Practices

_____ Establish a ground cover, such as grass, before planting trees. _____ Do not allow bare rooted trees to dry out at anytime. _____ Prune broken, diseased or damaged limbs when the tree is in the dormancy stage. _____ Test soil for nutrient status and pH every year. Maintain records of test results and fertilizer applications. _____ Avoid over-fertilizing trees, especially when fertilizing the ground cover. _____ Do not apply fertilizer closer than 8 inches from the trunk.



Pesticide Management

_____ Use approved and registered pesticides according to label. _____ Maintain application records including date, location, applicator, target pest, pesticide name, EPA registration number, formulation, rate and number of acres treated are maintained. _____ All sprayers are calibrated at the start of the season. _____ Minimize pesticide drift. _____ Develop and implement a resistance management plan. _____ Select pesticides which will preserve natural enemies of pests. _____ Use separate sprayers for herbicides and insecticides. _____ Check sprayer(s) calibration at least once during the season. _____ Recalibrate each sprayer as needed. _____ Maintain records of planting dates for treated fields. _____ Keep records of stage of crop of treated field. _____ Use water-sensitive spray cards to test coverage of leaf surfaces.



Insect Pest Management

_____ Scout "SUSPECT INSECTS"

(Cherry Pests) .. American Plum Borer .. Black Cherry Aphid .. Black Scale .. Branch and Twig Borer .. Brown Mite .. Cherry Leafhopper .. Cherry Slug .. Cribrate Weevil .. European Earwig .. European Fruit Lecanium .. Eyespotted Bud Moth .. Fruit tree Leafroller .. Green Fruitworms .. Mountain Leafhopper .. Orange Tortrix .. Pacific Flatheaded Borer .. Peachtree Borer .. Peach Twig Borer .. Redhumped Caterpillar .. San Jose Scale .. Shothole Borer .. Webspinning Spider Mites .. Western Tussock Moth

(Plum Pests) .. Caterpillars .. Cankerworms .. Citrus Cutworm .. Codling Moth .. Fall Webworm .. Fruit tree Leafroller .. Green Fruitworms .. Obliquebanded Leafroller .. Omnivorous Leafroller .. Orange Tortrix .. Peach Twig Borer .. Redhumped Caterpillar .. Tent Caterpillars .. Western Tussock Moth .. Mites .. Brown Mite .. Eriophyid Mites .. European Red Mite .. Webspinning Spider Mites .. Aphids .. Leaf Curl Plum Aphid .. Mealy Plum Aphid .. Thrips .. Western Flower Thrips .. Scales .. European Fruit Lecanium .. Italian Pear Scale .. San Jose Scale .. Borers .. American Plum Borer .. Branch and Twig Borer .. Pacific Flatheaded Borer .. Peachtree Borer .. Shothole Borer

_____ Identify major insect pests. _____ Keep a scouting record. _____ Identify control measures and implement according to thresholds.



Disease Pest Management

_____ Identify major diseases. _____ Keep a scouting record. _____ Identify control measures and implement according to thresholds.



Weed Pest Management

_____ Prepare weed maps in mid-to-late season, indicating significant weed species and their location. _____ Use last year's scouting records to begin this year's scouting. _____ Base all herbicide rate, selection and spot or strip sprays on weed survey results. _____ Weeds may be controlled by cultivation, with no herbicide applied. _____ Use reduced rates of herbicide through banding of herbicides and cultivation. _____ Do not use herbicides of the same class on the same field in succeeding years. (Use crop rotation and corresponding herbicide selections.) _____ Prevent weeds within the field, alleys and roadways from going to seed. _____ Use an experimental plot to test different weed management techniques and record the results.



Weather and Crop Monitoring

_____ Monitor weather and crop parameters _____ Keep daily records.

Date: - Min/max temperatures: - Rainfall: - Hours of leaf wetness: - Stage of tree development (by cultivar, weekly):



PLANTING

Cherries will do best in full sunlight and good soil conditions. The soil should be a well-drained, fertile, sandy loam, with a pH of 6.0-6.5, and at least 4 feet deep. The trees should be planted on a small slope if there is a potential problem for cold air settling; however, hilltops that are extremely windy should be avoided. The trees should not be placed too close together because they may not receive full sunlight and it is more difficult to control insects and diseases. Most trees being planted will be bare-root in dormancy that should be planted in early spring soon after the soil is workable. The roots of these trees should be soaked for 4-8 hours in water before being planted. The site where the tree will be planted should have at least a half-day of full sun to produce fruit and should drain quickly. The hole should be large enough to fit all the roots without bending them; however, unusually long roots may be pruned, but this is not a regular practice. The soil may be amended at planting time with compost or peat moss but no fertilizer should be added to the soil at planting. The tree should be planted at the depth that it was in the nursery with the graft union near the soil line. Finally, the tree must be watered immediately after the hole has been filled in and receive regular irrigations of 1-2 inches of water each week for the first year. Placing a mulch around the base of the tree will help conserve moisture.



VARIETY SELECTION

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When selecting varieties to plant, things to consider are the tree's hardiness, the ultimate tree size, and pollination requirements. Hardiness is the ability to withstand cold temperature of 10-20ºF below 0ºF. Most sweet and sour cherries and plums are hardy. Many varieties are dwarf or semi-dwarf trees, which begin bearing fruit 2-3 years earlier than standard varieties, but are not recommended for commercial orchard use. Most sweet cherries and plums must be cross-pollinated which means that a pollinating variety of tree must also be planted. Although tart cherries are self-pollinating, they produce a greater number of fruit when cross-pollinated. Pollinating is accomplished primarily by honey bees when the temperatures are above 65ºF.

Cherry tree, healthy (S. Savage; Colorado State University)

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Chokecherry, healthy (C. L. Parish; Colorado State University)

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PRUNING

Pruning is done to maximize light penetration into the tree and maintain healthy wood. At planting, four or six branches should be selected about 3 feet from the ground and spaced evenly as possible around the tree to form the first scaffold of branches. These branches should not all be the same height and all other branches should be removed. If there are not at least three strong branches, remove all the branches and prune the leader back to a height of 30-40 inches from the ground. Soon branches will sprout from the trunk and the scaffold branches can be selected removing all others. If this is to be done, this pruning can be done in mid-summer. The second year and thereafter, pruning should be accomplished in early spring. During the second year, a second tier of four to six branches should be selected about 18-20 inches above the first tier. All other branches should be removed so that the tree's energy can go to the selected branches. Prune sparingly in subsequent years, removing weak or crossing branches and those that may be growing inward or down. Some varieties may be susceptible to trunk cracking in the winter from extreme temperatures. If this is the case, wrap the trunk with a paper or plastic trunk protector in late fall, removing it from the trees in spring. White latex paint can also be applied as a protectant.



CLIMATE

Probably the most important consideration in determining if cherry or plum trees will be successful to a particular area is the temperature. Many fruit trees require a certain number of days that are freezing or near freezing during the winter for proper dormancy. Most cherry and plum varieties need at least 150 frost-free days that occur from the last killing frost in the spring to the first killing frost in the fall. Severely cold temperatures that are less than 0ºF and frost during bloom in early spring are the two most common reasons for fruit failure.



IRRIGATION

Most roots are in the upper two feet of soil and require a deep soaking every 7-15 days. Regular irrigation is especially important in the first year to establish a good root system. Uniform soil moisture is important in maintaining tree vigor, productivity, and fruit size. Irrigation should begin in the spring at the onset of growth and continue until mid to late September. Many different types of irrigation are used, drip, soaker hose, or sprinklers, but less frequent, long soakings are preferred over more frequent, light waterings.



FERTILIZING

MANAGING PESTS

The following is a list of diseases and insects that commonly affect stone fruits and some suggestions as how to treat them. Coryneum blight and canker is controlled by pruning the trees to remove old cankers and open up the tree for better light and air penetration. Bacterial canker is controlled through fungicide sprays in the late fall when about 90% of the leaves have fallen. Cytospora canker has no effective chemical controls available, but pruning out infected limbs and burning them will significantly decrease the problem. The cherry fruit fly is the most serious insect problem of cherries and can be controlled by spraying every 7-10 days to kill the adult flies before they lay eggs inside the fruit.



HARVEST

Cherries do not ripen after they have been picked and should remain on the tree until they are still firm and have developed full size and color. Sweet cherries will be sweet and juicy and tart cherries will be juicy and fully flavored. The fruit should be handled carefully because it will bruise easily and is quickly perishable. Cherries and plums should be immediately refrigerated to a temperature of 32-40ºF and 85-90% relative humidity and cherries will keep for 3-5 days while plums will keep 3-5 weeks. Plums will ripen after being picked. In mature plums, ground color will become yellowish instead of the dull green color in the immature stage. The best guides for testing plum ripeness are pressure and sweetness. They should be just beginning to soften and should taste sweet and juicy.

Sour cherry, shaking (C. R. Ure; Colorado State University)

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PEACH, NECTARINE, & APRICOT GUIDELINES

STATISTICS

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OUTLINE OF MANAGEMENT ACTIVITIES

Cultural Practices

_____ Before planting, prepare the soil plowing or spading followed by discing or raking to smooth the surface. _____ Have the soil tested for nutrient deficiencies prior to planting. _____ Make sure the soil pH is 6.5 prior to planting. Apply lime to the soil to make adjustments. _____ Apply fertilizer according to test results. Do not allow fertilizer to accumulate around the trunk. _____ Train young trees by selecting evenly spaced, vigorous shoots, and removing all others. _____ Prune mature trees in dormancy to avoid injury. _____ Keep trees weed free to avoid competition for water and nutrients.



Pesticide Management

_____ Use approved and registered pesticides according to label. _____ Maintain application records including date, location, applicator, target pest, pesticide name, EPA registration number, formulation, rate and number of acres treated are maintained. _____ All sprayers are calibrated at the start of the season. _____ Minimize pesticide drift. _____ Develop and implement a resistance management plan. _____ Select pesticides which will preserve natural enemies of pests. _____ Use separate sprayers for herbicides and insecticides. _____ Check sprayer(s) calibration at least once during the season. _____ Recalibrate each sprayer as needed. _____ Maintain records of planting dates for treated fields. _____ Keep records of stage of crop of treated field. _____ Use water-sensitive spray cards to test coverage of leaf surfaces.



Insect Pest Management

_____ Scout "SUSPECT INSECTS" .. Branch and Twig Borer .. Brown Mite .. Cribrate Weevil .. European Earwig .. European Fruit Lecanium .. European Red Mite .. Fruit tree Leafroller .. Green Fruitworm .. Mealy Plum Aphid .. Orange Tortrix .. Pacific Flatheaded Borer .. Peachtree Borer .. Peach Twig Borer .. Redhumped Caterpillar .. Shothole Borer .. Webspinning Spider Mites .. Western Tussock Moth

_____ Identify major insect pests. _____ Keep a scouting record. _____ Identify control measures and implement according to thresholds.



Disease Pest Management

_____ Identify major diseases. _____ Keep a scouting record. _____ Identify control measures and implement according to thresholds.



Weed Pest Management

_____ Prepare weed maps in mid-to-late season, indicating significant weed species and their location. _____ Use last year's scouting records to begin this year's scouting. _____ Base all herbicide rate, selection and spot or strip sprays on weed survey results. _____ Weeds may be controlled by cultivation, with no herbicide applied. _____ Use reduced rates of herbicide through banding of herbicides and cultivation. _____ Do not use herbicides of the same class on the same field in succeeding years. (Use crop rotation and corresponding herbicide selections.) _____ Prevent weeds within the field, alleys and roadways from going to seed. _____ Use an experimental plot to test different weed management techniques and record the results.



Weather and Crop Monitoring

_____ Monitor weather and crop parameters _____ Keep daily records.

Date: - Min/max temperatures: - Rainfall: - Hours of leaf wetness: - Stage of tree development (by cultivar, weekly):



PLANTING

Most trees being planted will be bare-root in dormancy that should be planted in early spring soon after the soil is workable. The roots of these trees should be soaked for 4-8 hours in water before being planted. The site where the tree will be planted should have at least a half-day of full sun to produce fruit but is desirable to have full sun all day. The hole should be large enough to fit all the roots without bending them; however, unusually long roots may be pruned, but this is not a regular practice. The soil may be amended at planting time with compost or peat moss but no fertilizer should be added to the soil at planting. The tree should be planted at the depth that it was in the nursery with the graft union near the soil line. The trees should not be placed too close together because they may not receive full sunlight and it is more difficult to control insects and diseases. Generally speaking, peaches and nectarines should be spaced 20 feet apart from each other and can be planted in solid blocks for easier spraying and harvesting. Finally, the tree must be watered immediately after the hole has been filled in and receive regular irrigations of 1-2 inches of water each week for the first year. If the soil is moist and will hold together well, irrigations may not be necessary at planting. Placing a mulch around the base of the tree will help conserve moisture.



CHILLING REQUIREMENT

Stone fruits require a minimum amount of accumulated cool temperatures, which are colder than 45ºF. For peaches and nectarines, the chilling requirement can range from 100-600 hours depending on the growing location and cultivar selected. It is best to select cultivars with chilling requirements slightly less than the average chilling period for that location to ensure an adequate chilling for unusually warm winters. When the chilling requirements are not met, fruit may not set or may have irregular fruit development. It is also important to remember that trees can be damaged by extreme cold temperatures. In warmer climates, damage can occur at temperatures between 20-28ºF depending on the stage the tree may be in; however, in colder climates these temperatures maybe as low as 0ºF. Exposed buds can usually withstand temperatures from 24-27ºF, but open buds will drop at 27ºF. When heavy frosts are expected, commercial growers should heat their orchards. In some situations, overhead sprinklers provide sufficient frost protection when temperatures drop to 32ºF.



CULTURAL PRACTICES

Trees should be planted in areas where they will receive full sunlight for best production. They should not be planted too closely together because they may begin to shade each other and this also causes production problems when spraying and harvesting. The trees should receive deep waterings at infrequent intervals to strengthen the root system. The trees should not be over-fertilized, especially with nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can easily burn roots and cause excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production. Finally, the trees should be properly trained and pruned. Young trees should be trained to open up the center of the tree to maximize light. In addition, branches growing across the tree or directly upright and broken branches should be removed.



POLLINATION

Most fruit trees need to be pollinated, although some are self-pollinating. Research suggests that self-pollinating varieties still have better performance when cross-pollinated. Peaches, nectarines and apricots are self-fertile but the number of fruit will improve if a pollinating variety is also planted.

Red Gold nectarine blossoms (showy blossoms) (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Red Gold nectarine blossoms (showy blossoms) (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Apricot, bud development, full bloom (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Apricot, bud development, full bloom (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Elberta peach blossoms (non-showy blossoms) (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Loring peach (full bloom) (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach, blossom + viable ovary (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach, cv. Jayhaven, bud development & bloom (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach, full bloom (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach, full bloom (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach blossoms (full bloom) (N. S. Luepschen; Colorado State University)

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Peach bud development, 1st pink stage (Newhaven cv.) (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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PRUNING

Pruning is necessary to form a well-shaped, strong tree that will maximize fruit production. This can be accomplished by cutting back a single stem 24-32 inches tall at planting. If laterals have formed on the nursery tree cut the laterals off nearly flush with the stem if they are within 18 inches of the soil line, but on the upper laterals leave stubs 1-2 inches long. After the tree initiates growth in early spring, select three evenly spaced, vigorous shoots to be the major scaffold branches and remove all others. Trees should be kept growing low to allow more of the fruit to be harvested from the ground in later years. During the second year, a second tier of four to six branches should be selected about 18-20 inches above the first tier. All other branches should be removed so that the tree's energy can go to the selected branches. Prune sparingly in subsequent years, removing weak or crossing branches and those that may be growing inward or down.

Nectarine, 1st leaf pruning, front tree before pruning (A. R Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Nectarine, after 1st leaf pruning (A. R Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Nectarine, before 1st leaf pruning (A. R Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach, left pruned late, right pruned before freeze (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Peach, mechanical thinning (C. R. Ure; Colorado State University)

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Peach, topping (C. R. Ure; Colorado State University)

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THINNING

Sometimes too many fruit are set on the tree and it may be necessary to thin them. A heavy crop may result in a weakened tree, due to weight of extra fruit, or it may cause smaller, poor quality fruit to be produced. Thinning must be done by hand approximately 4 weeks after bloom and space peaches 4-8 inches apart and apricots 3-4 inches apart.

Peach thinning on stilts (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Peach thinning on stilts (C. R. Ure; Colorado State University)

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CULTIVAR SELECTION

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An ideal commercial peach tree should produce firm fruit two inches or larger in diameter with a yellow flesh, capable of a week's marketing life. Fruit without high blush color or less than 2 inches in diameter for peach and 13/4 inches in diameter for nectarine have not been very acceptable in commercial markets.



SOIL

Peaches will grow in a range of soil types, although they will perform the best in deep, well-drained soils. Sandy to clay loams are preferred as long as the upper 4-6 feet drain well and do not allow standing water. The soil pH should be near 6.5. It is recommended to periodically (about every 3 years) have the soil pH tested so that adjustments can be made if necessary.



IRRIGATION

Commercial orchards should be equipped for irrigation because the trees should never be stressed for moisture, as this affects the fruit. Most roots are in the upper two feet of soil and require a deep soaking of 1-2 inches of water every 7-15 days. Regular irrigation is especially important in the first year to establish a good root system. Uniform soil moisture is important in maintaining tree vigor, productivity, and fruit size. Irrigation should begin in the spring at the onset of growth and continue until mid to late September. Many different types of irrigation are used, drip, soaker hose, or sprinklers, but less frequent, long soakings are preferred over more frequent, light waterings.



FERTILIZING

The soil pH should be raised to 6.0-6.5 through liming procedures before planting, if necessary. Unless soil tests indicate a specific deficiency, soils do not need to be fertilized the first year. After the first year, the tree's growth can be used as a guide for necessary fertilizing. If the tree grew 15 inches or more in length, then the soil is adequately fertilized and does not need additional nutrients. Mature bearing trees should grow at least 8 inches a year. When fertilizing is necessary, it is important to remember that too little fertilizer is better than too much, which can easily burn the roots and may delay ripening by as much as 10 days. Nitrogen is the nutrient that is most deficient and will be displayed when the leaves turn light green to yellowish and shoot growth is reduced. Nitrogen that is quickly available to the plant and is applied before bloom is believed to improve fruit set. A farm specialist will be able to recommend the amount of fertilizer that will need to be applied, as this amount will vary from region to region. The fertilizer should be scattered under the branches just beyond the outermost branches, but do not get any closer than 8 inches to the trunk. Water should carry the fertilizer down into the root zone; however, competition from weeds or ground cover must be minimized so they don't use the fertilizer. Fertilizing can occur from late fall to early spring when the trees are in dormancy.



WEED CONTROL

Both mechanical and chemical means can be used for proper ground management in the orchard. The weeds must be controlled and grass must be mowed, especially in young orchards to reduce the competition for water and nutrients.



MANAGING PESTS

The following is a list of diseases and insects that commonly affect stone fruits and suggestions as how to treat them. Coryneum blight and canker is controlled by pruning the trees to remove old cankers and open up the tree for better light and air penetration. Peach leaf curl and powdery mildew are both treated with fungicides, peach leaf curl needing applications in late winter before buds swell and powdery mildew when blossoms split and fall as the young fruit begin to enlarge. Bacterial canker is controlled through fungicide sprays in the late fall when about 90% of the leaves have fallen. Cytospora canker, root-knot nematode, peach phony, and oak root fungus have no effective chemical controls available, but pruning out infected limbs and burning them will significantly decrease the problem. Brown rot, peach scab, and rhizopus rot all require chemical sprays to achieve good control. Bacterial spot can be controlled by using resistant cultivars. Aphids and scale insects require an application of a delayed, dormant oil spray just as the first few green tips of leaves appear from the buds. Peach tree borers need insecticides applied to the bark on the lower portion of the trunk.



HARVEST

Peaches and nectarines are harvested when nearly mature, but still firm enough to ship well. The fruit should be carefully picked and handled to prevent bruising. Peaches do not mature uniformly on the trees, and so it is necessary to pick over the orchard three to four times at two-day intervals in order to obtain fruit that have reached the right stage for harvesting. Peaches must be carefully graded, sized, brushed, cooled, and packed for long distance shipment. It is possible to plan cultivar plantings to insure the use of harvest labor and packing facilities evenly over as long a period as possible.



MISC. PHOTOS

Peach replant, deep ripping to 5' (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Peach replant, deep ripping to 5' (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Peach replant, ripper set to 5' (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Nectarine, 1st leaf fresh berm (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Orchard heaters (C. R. Ure; Colorado State University)

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Peach, 5 - 6th leaf, severe replant problem (peach after cherry) (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Peach tree, summer growth (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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Ripping, preplant (too wet) (A. R. Renquist; Colorado State University)

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Soil fumigation equipment, shanks (H. J. Larsen; Colorado State University)

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